Review: Summer Menu at Tresind
Our favourite progressive Indian restaurant has got a menu makeover. Ardent foodie and ad whiz Foram Divrania checks it out
What’s better than food that tastes fantastic? Food that truly surprises you. Food that one never thought would get served in the way it does. The ability to delight diners’ palates not just through taste but also their imagination, is what makes Tresind a worthy candidate on the top of my recommendations list.
With the new summer menu, the entire team’s vision at Tresind manifests in a theatrical spectacle, right from the appetising smoke at the beginning till the Paan flavoured Candy Floss at the end. Most dishes are experimental enough to amuse a diner’s imagination but they don’t cross the line of the unimaginable. Which, I believe, helps keep the flavor at the center of this molecular gastronomy experience.
The Mushroom Tea is quite the charmer with its earthy flavours, infused in a tea like concoction, accompanied by rare Mushrooms from the Northern part of India. The Chicken Tikka Carpaccio with Litchi and Tarragon in Apple Wood Smoke was delicious but not outstanding. Though, that does not stand true for what was about to follow. The starters were, in fact, outstanding. The magically-melt-in-mouth Tandoori Lamb Chops with Rosemary reduction and Ghee-roast Potatoes and the delicious Tandoori Tiger Prawn Benedict (inspired by Eggs Benedict) definitely won the show. The flavours and the superior textures of these dishes were a revelation. Giving us a break from Indian flavours, the appetising Steamed John Dory with Thai Chili and Galangal was steamed right in front of us. Anyone still looking for Dory? Well, I ate it.
Even their palate cleanser, the Lassi Sorbet had me inappropriately mmm-ing.
The main course presented itself, bursting with flavours. The Parsi Baida Roti with Chicken Curry and Onion Pickle is the perfect example of simple flavours made extra-ordinary with considerable expertise. That Chicken Curry was perhaps the best I’ve had as far as memory serves. The Khandvi with Kadhi was a sophisticated knock-out punch with a nostalgia filled trip to my Gujarati roots.
Having spent 2.5 hours indulging in the chef’s creations, I was convinced that there were no more tricks left up his sleeves for the dessert course.
The Jalebi with condensed milk (Rabri) fondue came out to prove me wrong. Now I’m not a Jalebi fan. In fact, I despise it. So, for me to finish one entire Jalebi without cringing is the best compliment I can pass on. The Almond Halwa Tart with Almond Cremeux and Coffee Ice Cream wasn’t too impressive and I didn’t go for a second helping. That wasn’t the case with the Raj Bhog and Summer Fruit Cream with Raspberry Blast. This colourful dessert, served in a lotus shaped apparatus, bursting with dry ice smoke was an absolute star. The flavours, the theatrics and the textures were so great that I wiped out the entire dish.
Before I end, I have to give a special mention to the bartender. The drinks were quite innovative and made with a lot of passion. They lifted the ‘spirits’ of the entire night, if you know what I mean.
All I’ll say now is that there are only a few good things that the Dubai summer brings with it. This summer menu is one of them.