El cocinero Jacinto Rodríguez, prepara tacos este viernes en la taquería El Califa de León, ubicada en la Ciudad de México (México). EFE/Isaac Esquivel
In a triumphant moment for street-food culture, Taquería El Califa de León, a cosy 100-square-foot taco stand nestled in Mexico City’s San Rafael neighborhood, has made history by becoming the first Mexican taco stand to earn a prestigious Michelin star. Established in 1968 and named after the legendary bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, this little gem serves just four menu items—bistec (beef steak), costilla (ribs), chuleta (pork chop), and their signature gaonera (filet mignon). All of these delectable preparations are wrapped in handmade corn tortillas pressed on a vintage comal that’s been passed down through the owner’s family.
Chef Arturo Rivera Martínez, who honed his skills at Enrique Olvera’s Pujol before returning to the stand in 2004, approaches food preparation with a ritualistic flair: the bistec is simply seasoned with salt and lime, the ribs are slow-cooked over mesquite wood, and the beloved gaonera is marinated in achiote and pineapple juice for a full 12 hours.
While awarding the coveted star, Michelin inspectors praised El Califa de León’s ‘elemental and pure’ style, calling the gaonera perfectly caramelized. This accolade reflects Michelin’s shifting standards, which now emphasises consistency, ingredient quality, technical mastery, and value for money, regardless of the dining experience. This has meant that street-food spots can also be recognized alongside fine-dining restaurants.
Since the launch of the Guide Mexico 2024, El Califa de León has seen its queues double, proving that greatness can flourish in the smallest of spaces. In past interviews, Chef Rivera Martínez has attributed the success to a commitment to tradition and has emphasised that this routine and respect for the craft are the foundations of the stand. Beyond El Califa de León, this achievement is a vote in favour of the vibrant street-food culture in Mexico City that has long been celebrated across the world.
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