Dubai boys Girish and Rakesh Daryani belong to the archetypal ‘textile family’ and they cut their teeth in the family business before taking it to a more premium level. In a city that values exclusive experiences more than anything else, the Daryani brothers have stepped into an arena that is increasingly getting popular among the well-heeled and well-travelled – bespoke tailoring. Sartor, their swish new store at H Hotel, caters to this audience that believes in having an extra edge to their wardrobe with ensembles that truly reflect their personality. But why go bespoke? Because it is a way to mark a true gentleman, say the brothers in this conversation with us…
What changes have you noticed in the textile business over the years?
Thanks to Dubai’s central location, the textile business flourished in the 1980s with traders from Iran, Iraq, Saudi Arabia and other GCC countries as well as Eastern Europeans and Africans coming here. The industry was doing very well for two decades. More players entered the market and with the growth of China, it started getting very competitive. By around 2010, the margins and volume started to reduce as markets matured. Today, with thinner margins, a whole new structure of doing business has emerged. Those who have adapted to this change are sustaining and are waiting for the scene to look up again. For now, to say it is competitive, would be an understatement but that's fine; it requires us to be more innovative to ensure we keep our niche desirable.
Why and when did you get into bespoke tailoring?
Well, both of us have enjoyed getting our clothes tailored for the past 20 years. We love the fabrics and how they fit once they are made for us specifically. So when given the opportunity with the right team, location and a bit of training, we decided to enter this space. People here are mostly tailoring the traditional way and we feel we have a modern take on the process that appeals to the younger crowd.
As more and more people begin the fitness journey and take good care of themselves by eating right and working out regularly, they deserve the best in dressing too! With the right colours and fabrics you can dress well in a tailored suit, jacket or a shirt. The confidence level is so different and you feel so good that you actually look forward to waking up and getting dressed! That has to be a great tool for the day right?!
It’s a growing industry but we see this particular segment of the market heading in the right direction. More and more people are even tailoring denims these days!
A perfectly tailored suit
What goes into tailoring the perfect suit for a man?
The right choices in a suit, should be in the fabric, colour and the fit. The process for a detailed suit is quite detailed. When a client walks in, first we gauge the mood of the purchase – it something casual, for work or a special occasion? Accordingly, they are guided to select a style which we zero in, after knowing their own interest as well as showing them our style books. They are advised on the latest trends by the staff. There are intricate details to account for - single cuff or double cuff, flat front trousers or belt loops, coloured trim on the colours and cuff or not, single lapel or double...the choices are endless. These days the trends to keep in mind for a man’s suit are hand stitching on the lapel, the name embroidered inside the jacket and the piping inside the jacket on the lining. The next step is the fabric and here, we have a wide choice as we stock some of the best Italian fabrics you can imagine. The tailors then take over, recording the measurements and getting it stitched. We do a trial, tweaks are carried out and finally, the suit is readied and delivered.
What mistakes do most men make when they select a suit for themselves?
We wouldn’t call it mistakes, it usually is a case of not being fully informed or being misguided at the time of the purchase. For instance the client may have an image of what they need and it may be out of date or they may want something so trendy that it's going to be short lived! They may know what they want but not what they need.
What are the three essentials a well-dressed man must have in his wardrobe?
A good white shirt, Navy blue blazer, Khaki chinos. If you combine the three, you have a very elegant outfit for any occasion, and if you wish you can use them separately too.
Personally, what are your favourite brands and why?
(Girish): I like Jacob Cohen and DSquared jeans, Feragammo and Carolina Herrera polos, and Sartor Suits and shirts only. They speak a different language and have their own identity and look stylish and modern when worn with the right combination.
Who, in your opinion, are the most well-dressed celebrities today? What do you like about their style?
It’s a tough one. We think there are many fantastically dressed men, both in Hollywood and Bollywood who carry their clothes with grace and elegance. Bollywood would be Saif Ali Khan and Ranbir Kapoor. Saif just does it so effortlessly and can carry an Indian or a western outfit with complete ease. So does Ranbir and with those looks, it must be very easy!
In Hollywood, George Clooney, has a certain class and is always dressed like a true gentlemen in every sense. He looks dapper whenever he steps out but especially in a suit. Also, Ryan Gosling has the looks and does wear suits very fashionably. There are also local celebrities like model Hamid Fadaei, fitness advocate Essa Al Ansari, man about town Mike Hardy and celebrity photographer Wadih El Najjar.